Diamond

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This is the Set Up page for the Diamond.

To access the DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUALS click HERE

Diamond Owner’s Manuals
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Diamond NON BOOST Owner’s Manual 

English | French | Spanish | German | Italian | Japanese

Diamond BOOST Owner’s Manual 

English | French | German | Italian | Spanish | Japanese

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Travel Adjust (Boost and NON Boost)
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DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE (diamond boost travel change guide is below)

The Diamond fork travel can be configured to 140mm, 150mm and 160mm. Travel adjustment is done by changing the spacers inside the air cartridge. This task should be performed by an Authorized DVO Suspension service center or a qualified suspension mechanic. Below is a video and a step by step PDF guide that show you how to perform the travel adjust.

WARNING! PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU RELEASE ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE AIR CARTRIDGE BEFORE PERFORMING THIS TASK. SERIOUS INJURY MAY OCCUR IF YOU DO NOT REMOVE ALL AIR FIRST.

Download Diamond Travel Adjust PDF Instructions (1.5mb)

DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE

This is a guide to changing the travel on your BOOST Diamond. If you have a NON-BOOST Diamond, you can find the guide in the lower tab.

The Diamond Boost 27.5 version has a minimum travel of 140mm’s, and a max travel of 170mm’s. The Diamond Boost 29 version has a minimum travel of 130mm’s and a max travel of 160mm’s. DO NOT go outside of these travel ranges!

Travel adjustment is done by changing the spacers inside the air cartridge. This task should be performed by an Authorized DVO Suspension service center or a qualified suspension mechanic. Below is a video that will show you how to perform the travel adjust.

WARNING! PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU RELEASE ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE AIR CARTRIDGE BEFORE PERFORMING THIS TASK. SERIOUS INJURY MAY OCCUR IF YOU DO NOT REMOVE ALL AIR FIRST. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

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Fork Installation
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Fork Installation

Warning
DVO Suspension strongly recommends that your fork be installed by a trained and qualified bicycle mechanic. Special knowledge and tools are essential to properly install DVO Suspension forks. Common mechanical knowledge may not be sufficient to install a DVO Suspension fork. If you intend on installing the fork by yourself, the whole job needs to be inspected by a trained and qualified bicycle mechanic. Please note, that improperly installed forks are extremely dangerous and cause damage to the product, serious injury or even death. All DVO Suspension forks come with a threadless steer tube. Do not add a thread to it! DVO Suspension fork steer tubes are for one-time press fit only which cannot be removed. Do not try to replace the steer tube with a threaded steer tube. This will void the warranty of your fork and result in a failure of the product or cause serious injuries or even death to the rider.
  1. If changing a fork on an existing bicycle, remove the front wheel and brake from your fork. After, remove the headset crown race from the fork.
  2. Using a headset race installer, install the headset crown race on new steer tube. Make sure it is firmly against the fork crown leaving no space between the crown race and the fork crown. (Refer to your headset manufacturer’s instructions to make sure the crown race is properly installed)Measure the steer tube length of existing fork and transfer this measurement to your new DVO Diamond steer tube. If you do not have an existing fork to measure you must install the fork into the bicycles head tube with the complete headset, stem and spacers. (Refer to your stem manufacturer’s instructions to be sure there will be enough clamping surface for the stem.) In this case you may need to cut your steer tube slightly shorter (3mm) to allow enough clamping surface so that the stem cap bolt can pull up on the steer tube, ensuring a snug and proper fit.
  3. If it is necessary to cut the steer tube, MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE. It is recommended that a cutting guide be used when cutting the steer tube.
  4. Install the star nut into the steer tube using a star nut installation tool to the proper depth.
  5. Install the DVO Diamond fork into the frame head tube. Tighten the star nut bolt so that there is no play or drag in the headset when turning the steer tube.
  6. Properly align the stem and handlebars then torque the stem clamping bolts to the stem manufacturer’s specifications.
  7. Install the front brake according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make sure you adjust the brake pads properly. Ensure that brake line length is the correct length to not effect steering or compression and extension of the fork. NOTE: Rotor size must be between 160mm-203mm
  8. Install the front brake hose through the cable guide. Make sure the hose is routed on the inside of the leg. Use a 2mm allen key and torque to 3nm to secure hose and cable guide.

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Wheel & Axle Installation
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Wheel Installation

  1. Insert the front wheel back onto the bike. Make sure the hub fits into the drop outs, then insert the thru axle from the non-disc side. Slide the axle until it makes contact with the threads of the axle bolt on the disc side.
  2. Rotate the axle lever clockwise until there is a small gap between the lever bolt and drop out on the non-disc side. The axle bolt should sit flush inside the grooves of the lower. If the axle bolt is not sitting inside the grooves release tension on the axle and line up the axle bolt so that you can lightly press it into the grooves. The axle bolt will secure itself when you tighten the axle again.
AXLE NUT_ADJUST_PUSHED OUT
Axle Bolt Open
AXLE NUT_INCORRECT INSTALLATION
Incorrect Position
AXLE NUT_CORRECT INSTALLATION
Correct Position

 

  1. To secure the axle, position the lever in the open position. When you flip the lever half way you should feel resistance and the lever bolt should be touching the drop out. Flip the lever to the closed position by hand strength only. The lever should feel very secure. DO NOT USE ANY TOOLS FOR LEVERAGE.
LEVER OPEN
Open
LEVER HALFWAY
Resistance Starts
LEVER CLOSED
Closed
  1. If there is too much or too little resistance adjust the axle bolt on the disc side. Unthread the axle 3 full turns then push the axle to the drive side. This will push the axle bolt out so you can adjust it. If the axle has too much tension then turn the axle bolt counter clock wise. If the axle did not have enough tension then turn the axle bolt clock wise. Rotate axle lever clockwise again and secure lever until there is proper tension in the closed position.

 

  1. Remove bike from stand. With the front brake on, lightly rock the bike back and forth to ensure the headset preload is at the appropriate torque value. THERE SHOULD BE NO PLAY IN THE HEADSET.

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Fender Installation
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The DVO Diamond comes with an integrated fender that can be used during muddy or sandy conditions. The Diamond fender kit includes the following:

• 1 x DVO Fender
• 1 x Mounting Bolt
• 2 x Snap-In Bolts

Using a 3mm allen key (ball end recommended), carefully thread in the 2 snap-in bolts into the lower holes on the rear of the arch and torque to 3Nm. Once these have been installed these bolts do not have to be removed. *Be careful to not scratch the stanchions during installation. Fender - Snap In Bolt
Line up the fender with the snap-in bolts and press down until secure. Fender will “snap” into place. BE SURE TO APPLY PRESSURE OVER THE MOUNT BOLT AND NOT THE TAIL OF THE FENDER. Fender - Line Up Position
Using a 3mm allen key, insert the fender mount bolt into the center of the arch and torque to 3Nm. There should be no play between the fender and the arch.
FENDER REMOVAL
Unthread the center mount bolt first. Then pull the fender upwards to release it from the lower snap-in bolts. DO NOT PULL UP on the tail of the fender. The snap-in bolts will stay threaded into the arch.
Fender - Remove

 

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Air Pressure Guide
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Setting the air pressure in the DVO Diamond is setting the spring rate for your fork. This is what is going to make the fork firmer or softer. Below is a base setting chart for air pressure to get you started. Set your pressure to the recommended PSI then check your SAG point. If you are sagging too much, add some air pressure, if you’re sagging too little, remove air pressure.

Proper Set Up

The Diamond uses an external negative spring adjust (OTT) to tune the beginning of the travel  (sensitivity of the fork). Once you get into the mid-stroke of the fork, the air spring (air pressure) is active. This controls your mid-stroke support and your bottom out. In simpler terms, set your air pressure for your mid-stroke and bottom out then set your OTT to fine tune how it feels off the top.

How do I know how much OTT is right for my air pressure? 

Lighter riders (lower air pressure) will use less OTT. (less sensitive) Heavier riders will need more OTT (more sensitive). The reason for this is because the OTT is there to counter-act the forces of a higher air pressure so you don’t loose small bump sensitivity. When you are using a lower air pressure, you don’t need as much to counter-act the air pressure. If you run too much OTT with a light air pressure, the fork will suck itself down and you will loose travel.

View one of the lower tabs to learn more about your OTT

To access the air valve you must remove the air spring cap.  Attach your shock pump securely and inflate the air spring to the recommended air pressure. After you have added the proper amount of air pressure remember to securely replace the air spring cap so that no dirt or moisture can get inside.

To access the air valve you must remove the air spring cap.  Attach your shock pump securely and inflate the air spring to the recommended air pressure. After you have added the proper amount of air pressure remember to securely replace the air spring cap so that no dirt or moisture can get inside.

Access air valve by removing air cap

Access air valve by removing air cap

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Air Pressure Range: 90-170psi

Rider Weight Air Pressure
120-139lbs | 54-63kg 90-100psi
140-159lbs | 64-72kg 100-110psi
160-179lbs | 73-81kg 110-125psi
180-199lbs | 82-90kg 125-130psi
200-219lbs | 91-100kg 130-135psi
220-239lbs | 100-108kg 135-140psi
240+lbs | 109kg+ 140-170psi

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Sag
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SAG is the amount your fork compresses under your body weight (don’t forget to include your riding gear), also referred to as Rider Weight. Since this is an enduro specific fork, measure sag by mounting your bike with your riding gear on, standing up and in the ready position. The ready position is basically, knees and elbows slightly bent, bars weighted but body weight on your feet. Every rider has a different riding weight and ready position based on rider height and style.

The recommended sag is 15%-20%. Setting proper sag is the only way to find the right air pressure for your fork. Refer to the chart below to find the proper sag.

Travel Sag in % Sag in mm
140mm 15-20% 21-28mm
150mm 15-20% 23-30mm
160mm 15-20% 24-32mm

 

EnduroRiderAttackPositionFinal

Proper position when measuring sag

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OTT “OFF THE TOP” Guide
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The Off-The-Top (OTT) feature is an exclusive DVO Suspension design. It allows the rider to adjust the initial sensitivity of the fork. Typically, a firm feeling fork (higher air pressure) will have poor or no small bump sensitivity. DVO has solved this problem with OTT. Now a firm set-up can also have amazing small bump sensitivity. This is accomplished by externally adjusting the preload on the negative springs. Increasing (rotate clockwise) the OTT will make the fork more sensitive (softer) at the beginning stroke. Decreasing (rotate counter-clockwise) the OTT will make the fork less sensitive (firmer). The OTT feature will not change the middle or ending stroke of your fork.

YOU WILL NEED A 5MM ALLEN KEY TO ADJUST THE OTT FEATURE.

OTT Range: 14 full rotations total (6 clicks per rotation)

Clockwise = Increase Sensitivity
Counter-clockwise = Decrease Sensitivity
MAKE SURE that you always adjust the OTT 1 full rotation at a time, not 1 click.

 

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Rebound and Compression
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Rebound Range: 20 clicks total

Rebound controls the speed at which the fork extends after compression. Rebound damping control is relative to the amount of air pressure used. Higher air pressure requires more rebound damping and lower air pressure will require less rebound damping so please adjust accordingly.

 Slower = More Rebound Damping

 Faster = Less Rebound Damping

Rebound Knob


  • Why do you need rebound?
    Rebound is how fast the suspension returns after it is compressed. It needs to be slow enough so the rider isn’t bucked off their bike but then fast enough so that in a series or impacts, the wheel returns in time to absorb the next impact
  • What happens if your rebound is too fast?
    If rebound is too fast, your wheel will fall into more holes, instead of skipping over the top of them. Handling will feel twitchy and hard to control, it will be easier to be thrown out of control on jumps and landings.
  • What happens if your rebound is too slow?
    If rebound is set too slow it will pack on successive hits because the fork cannot extend fast enough keeping you in the mid stroke. This will result in the wheel going deeper into the travel on every hit and riding towards the end stroke.

LOW SPEED COMPRESSION
The Diamond comes with a “Quick Range” low speed compression adjuster that has 6 clicks of adjustment. Setting “1” is wide open and recommended when descending or riding on technical terrain. When you are climbing, you can switch the LSC to “6” to give you the firmest setting and best pedaling platform. Don’t forget to change this back when you start to descend!

Low speed compressions controls the slower vertical movements such as climbing or slower paced trails and bumpy whoop sections. A good example of low speed is rolling slowly over a large rock and riding to its downside, this is where the suspension will fully compress but at a slower rate and low speed compression circuit comes into play.  LSC refers to the shaft speed of the suspension and not the actual riding speed. LS compression is best controlled through a low speed oil circuit and or shim stack.

Low Speed Compression (LSC) Range: 6 clicks total

Diamond - Compression Knob

  • Why do you need Low Speed Compression?
    Low speed compression affects the suspensions performance when the shaft is moving up and down at slow speeds. Low Speed affects small bump performance and controls dive under breaking.
  • What happens if you have too much Low Speed Compression?
    Too much Low Speed Compression will result in harshness over small bumps and traction will be reduced. Turning performance may also suffer because the suspension will ride to high in its travel. Ride may become harsh.
  • What happens if you don’t have enough Low Speed Compression?
    Not enough Low Speed Compression will result in the front end diving to quickly under braking. The suspension will have a mushy feeling and may bottom out to easily.


HIGH SPEED COMPRESSION
High Speed Compression controls the damping force under faster suspension movements regardless of the rider’s speed. HSC comes into effect on fast, rough, technical trails, g-outs and hard landings. If you find yourself easily going through the travel then 1st make sure your sag is correct then adjust your HSC accordingly.

High Speed Compression (HSC) Range: 29 clicks total


  • Why do you need High Speed Compression?
    High Speed Compression damping affects the suspension when the shaft is moving up and down at high speeds. High Speed Compression helps with large impacts or sharp/sudden impacts. High Speed Compression can be used to reduce bottom.
  • What happens if you have too much High Speed Compression?
    Too much High Speed Compression may result in the fork not being able to reach full travel, and or spiking on large impacts.
  • What happens if you don’t have enough High Speed Compression?
    If you don’t have enough High Speed Compression, The fork will blow through it’s travel to easily on jump faces, and will bottom out to easily on large impacts.

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Base Tune
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Setting up your fork is one of the most important things you can do to get the most out of your suspension. Follow these base tunes and get your suspension dialed. Remember, these are starting-points. Rider ability, preference and track conditions will vary.

When setting up your compression and OTT, start from Wide-Open. Wide-Open is characterized by taking the adjuster and turning it counter-clockwise until it stops. The Compression and OTT  adjustments below refers to making adjustments clockwise from the Wide-Open setting.

When setting up your rebound, start from fully closed. Starting from closed is the best way to find your perfect rebound setting. The rebound adjustment below refers to making adjustments counter-clockwise from the Fully-Closed setting.

Air Pressure Range: 90-170psi
OTT Range: 6 clicks = 1 full rotation. 14 full rotations total.
Rebound Range: 20 clicks total
High Speed Compression (HSC) Range: 29 clicks total
Low Speed Compression (LSC) Range: 6 clicks total

Rider WeightAir PressureOTTReboundHSCLSC
120-139lbs | 54-63kg90-100psi0-2 rotations10-14 clicks0-1 clicks1-2 clicks
140-159lbs | 64-72kg100-110psi2-4 rotations10-14 clicks0-2 clicks1-2 clicks
160-179lbs | 73-81kg110-125psi3-7 rotations8-12 clicks2-3 clicks1-2 clicks
180-199lbs | 82-90kg125-130psi6-8 rotations8-12 clicks2-4 clicks1-2 clicks
200-219lbs | 91-100kg130-135psi7-9 rotations6-10 clicks3-5 clicks1-2 clicks
220-239lbs | 100-108kg135-140psi8-10 rotations6-10 clicks4-6 clicks1-2 clicks
240+lbs | 109+kg140-170psi11-14 rotations6-10 clicks5-7 clicks1-2 clicks

*If you are out of the range of our recommended base tunes then custom tuning might be for you. Check out our Custom Tuning Page for more details.

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Owner’s Manual
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Choose Language: 

English | French | German | Italian | Spanish | Japanese

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Diamond Tuning
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This is the Tuning page for the Diamond.

To access the DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUALS click HERE

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Topaz
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This is the Tuning page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the Service page click HERE

To access the Set Up page click HERE 

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

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Emerald
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This is the Set Up page for the Emerald.

To access the Tuning page click HERE

To access the Service Guides click HERE

To access the Owner’s Manuals click HERE

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Diamond
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This is the Set Up page for the Diamond.

To access the DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUALS click HERE

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Garnet Seat Post
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Topaz
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This is the Set Up page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the TUNING page click HERE

To access the Service page click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

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Topaz
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This is the Service page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the TUNING page click HERE

To access the Set Up page click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

We recommend all DVO Suspension service should be performed by a qualified bicycle mechanic. Terrain, location and riding ability can greatly affect the interval in which maintenance should be performed. Always inspect your products, and lean towards caution if maintenance is in question. When in doubt, consult a qualified bicycle mechanic, or contact DVO Suspension directly.[/box]

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Air Pressure
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Setting the air pressure in the DVO Diamond is setting the spring rate for your fork. This is what is going to make the fork firmer or softer. Below is a base setting chart for air pressure to get you started. Set your pressure to the recommended PSI then check your SAG point. If you are sagging too much, add some air pressure, if you’re sagging too little, remove air pressure.

Proper Set Up

The Diamond uses an external negative spring adjust (OTT) to tune the beginning of the travel  (sensitivity of the fork). Once you get into the mid-stroke of the fork, the air spring (air pressure) is active. This controls your mid-stroke support and your bottom out. In simpler terms, set your air pressure for your mid-stroke and bottom out then set your OTT to fine tune how it feels off the top.

How do I know how much OTT is right for my air pressure? 

Lighter riders (lower air pressure) will use less OTT. (less sensitive) Heavier riders will need more OTT (more sensitive). The reason for this is because the OTT is there to counter-act the forces of a higher air pressure so you don’t loose small bump sensitivity. When you are using a lower air pressure, you don’t need as much to counter-act the air pressure. If you run too much OTT with a light air pressure, the fork will suck itself down and you will loose travel.

View one of the lower tabs to learn more about your OTT

To access the air valve you must remove the air spring cap.  Attach your shock pump securely and inflate the air spring to the recommended air pressure. After you have added the proper amount of air pressure remember to securely replace the air spring cap so that no dirt or moisture can get inside.

Access air valve by removing air cap

Access air valve by removing air cap

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Air Pressure Range: 90-170psi

Rider Weight Air Pressure
120-139lbs | 54-63kg 90-100psi
140-159lbs | 64-72kg 100-110psi
160-179lbs | 73-81kg 110-125psi
180-199lbs | 82-90kg 125-130psi
200-219lbs | 91-100kg 130-135psi
220-239lbs | 100-108kg 135-140psi
240+lbs | 109kg+ 140-170psi

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Suspension Terms & Definitions
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Base Valve
Bottoming Out
Closed Cartridge Dampers
Compression Damping
Fork Oil Level
Free Sag
High-Speed Damping
Low-Speed Damping
Mid-Valve
Negative Spring
Open Bath Dampers
Packing
Platform Damping
Rebound Damping
Spring Preload
Spring Type
Stiction
Twin Tube Dampers
Valving


Base Valve
Base valves are located at the base of the fork leg or on the shock’s reservoir  and generally function to control high speed compression. Base valves or “BV” are fixed & the piston that is attached to a shaft is referred to as the mid-valve or “MV”. Both forks and shocks can have a “BV” and a “MV”.

Bottoming Out
When your suspension reaches the end of its travel on an impact. You generally want to reach full bottom on occasion but NOT all the time. Continual bottoming can wreak havoc on the suspension system leading to breakage.

Closed Cartridge Dampers
Closed Cartridge Dampers are the opposite of an Open Bath Damper, in a closed system the oil solely contained within a cartridge tube and does not flow into the fork leg. Therefore, additional oil or lubricant is added to the inside of the leg to lubricate the seals and bushings.

Compression Damping
This is what gives your bike it’s feeling of plushness, or stiffness. Compression determines how fast the suspension can compress when hitting a bump. If your suspension is too “stiff”, the system won’t compress fast enough to absorb a bump force. When there is not enough damping, the bike has soft, mushy feeling to it and will compress through its travel with little damping resistance.

Fork Oil Level
The level of oil inside the fork. It’s typically measured in cc’s by fully compressing the fork without the spring installed. It is used in tuning the amount of air contained inside the fork. Since compressing air acts like a spring, raising the oil level leaves less room for air, resulting in a rising rate throughout the fork’s travel.

Free Sag
The amount the bike settles under its own weight without the rider. With mountain bikes becoming lighter and lighter, free sag is really not a critical tuning element but still worth mentioning.

High-Speed Damping
Damping feature that controls fast suspension movements. High-speed damping comes into effect on fast, rough, technical trails, g-outs, hard landings. HSD refers to the shaft speed of the suspension and not the actual riding speed. HSD is controlled through a high speed oil circuit best located in the base valve.

Low-Speed Damping
Damping feature to control slower vertical movements such as climbing or slower paced trails and bumpy whoop sections. A good example of low speed is rolling slowly over a large rock and riding to its downside, this is where the suspension will fully compress but at a slower rate and low speed compression circuit comes into play.  LSD refers to the shaft speed of the suspension and not the actual riding speed. LS damping is best controlled through a low speed oil circuit and or shim stack.

Mid-Valve
Mid valves are located on the piston shaft and function in the middle part of the stroke. Mid valves can play an important function in keeping a long travel fork from diving too far into its travel. Mid valves “”MV” function when oil passes through the “MV” from one side of the chamber to the other. The rebound valve is also located on the “MV”.

Negative Spring
A negative spring functions to control the return of the suspension when it reaches full extension. Negative springs can be air, coil spring, rubber bumper or a combination of both. A negative spring also functions to soften the “top out feel” when the wheel/suspension rapidly extends and it also helps initiate compression providing a smoother or more sensitive initial feel. An adjustable negative spring offers the greatest tuning range for riders weight, for example a heavy rider will need a higher or stiffer spring to resist pre-compression, but the high spring rate may also completely compress the negative spring rendering it ineffective to control top out.

Open Bath Dampers
Open Bath refers to a cartridge that is NOT closed and allows oil to flow from the inside of the damper to the outside of the cartridge or inside of the fork legs. Open Bath Dampers use oil for damping, lubrication, cooling, and end stroke “ramp up” or “progression”.  But the downside of all this oil is the added weight of all the excess oil that is used to fill the entire fork leg.

Packing
An issue caused from too much rebound damping. When a series of bumps are encountered, the suspension doesn’t rebound fast enough to absorb the next bump. The suspension keeps compressing more and more after each bump and it gives the rider a very harsh feeling and even loss of traction and control because the wheels no longer follows the contour of the terrain.

Platform Damping
A platform is generally referred to as resistance to initial suspension compression usually generated by pedaling or rider induced forces. A platform can be achieved by various methods and usually the best way to limit suspension “bobbing” is to restrict oil flow through the low speed circuit. Depending on what technology you have and there are various designs out there, choking off the low speed circuit can be achieved by either adjusting a pressure spring on the shim stack, adjusting the depth of a bleed needle or changing the size of an orifice via a slide. These are just a few of the most common methods to deliver platform damping feel to improve pedaling efficiency.

Rebound Damping
Once your suspension has hit a bump and compresses, now its time for your rebound damping to kick in. Rebound controls how fast the fork extends back from compression to keep the wheel on the ground. Rebound can affect your traction as well. Too much rebound damping will keep the suspension compressed when it should be extending to stay on the ground on the downside of a bump, and the wheel will loose contact with the ground. This is called “Packing”. Too little rebound damping will cause the suspension to “bounce” and “hop” also causing a loss of traction and control. Proper rebound control is equally important as compression and it is very important to properly tune this performance feature. The rebound valve is best located on the “MV” with a tapered shim stack controlling oil flow. Damping systems that use oriface or small holes to control damping simply cannot control the dynamics of high performance suspension.

Spring Preload
The preload ring or collar compresses the shock or fork spring and either shortens or extends the spring to its original length. Preload is used to adjust the suspension to the correct range of operation within the suspension’s travel- more spring preload will the raise the bike up and less preload will lower it.

Spring Type
Springs can either be coil or air and both are widely used in mountain bike suspension systems. Springs work to resist pre-compression of the suspension under the riders weight and is independent of the compression system which refers to damping. Too stiff of a spring rate delivers a harsh and uncontrolled feel, if your spring rate is too soft, the suspension will sit too far into its travel and will feel mushy and easily bottom out . Its important to have the correct spring rate for each rider and setting up “SAG” will determine whether you have the correct rate or not.

Stiction
Or static friction, is a term that describes friction that occurs from parts rubbing or gliding across one another. For example, on both the rebound and compression stroke, the stanchion tubes must glide against the bushings, o-rings, seals, and other parts. The parts that come in contact with one another create friction and when a bending load is applied the stiction can increase causing the suspension to bind and feel notchy. Stiction can also dramatically increase after seals become dry resulting in the loss of small bump sensitivity.

Twin Tube Dampers
Twin Tube systems generally combine the technology of an “Open Bath” Damper and a “Closed Cartridge” system. With a Twin Tube design, the cartridge damper is inside of a tube (hence twin tube) allowing oil to flow from the cartridge damper into and from the twin tube providing additional oil flow and damping performance without the added weight of “excess” oil that is needed to fill the fork leg.

Valving
The mechanical hardware that creates compression or rebound damping. Valving is a combination of check valves, holes, ports, shims, springs, etc. The best valving arrises out of piston with a series of tapered shim stacks which are very thin high quality steel “washers” that when combined together produce a smooth yet linear flex pattern when oil flows around them. Shims provide the resistance to the oil flowing through the piston at various speeds.  The lower amount of shims used typically means the damping quality is less. Systems that use one or two shims deliver a harsh feel on high speed hits, unfortunately, many so-called high performance suspension designs use very few shims and/or only small holes to control damping forces. If your clickers are ineffective or have a very small range, this is due to improper piston & shim stack design.

 

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Owner’s Manual

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Choose Language: 

English | French | German | Italian | Spanish | Japanese

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Diamond Tuning

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This is the Tuning page for the Diamond.

To access the DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUALS click HERE

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Topaz

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This is the Tuning page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the Service page click HERE

To access the Set Up page click HERE 

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

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Emerald

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This is the Set Up page for the Emerald.

To access the Tuning page click HERE

To access the Service Guides click HERE

To access the Owner’s Manuals click HERE

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Diamond

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This is the Set Up page for the Diamond.

To access the DIAMOND BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the DIAMOND NON BOOST TRAVEL CHANGE GUIDE  click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUALS click HERE

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Garnet Seat Post

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Topaz

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This is the Set Up page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the TUNING page click HERE

To access the Service page click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

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Topaz

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This is the Service page for the Topaz T3Air.

To access the TUNING page click HERE

To access the Set Up page click HERE

To access the OWNER’S MANUAL click HERE

We recommend all DVO Suspension service should be performed by a qualified bicycle mechanic. Terrain, location and riding ability can greatly affect the interval in which maintenance should be performed. Always inspect your products, and lean towards caution if maintenance is in question. When in doubt, consult a qualified bicycle mechanic, or contact DVO Suspension directly.[/box]

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Air Pressure

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Setting the air pressure in the DVO Diamond is setting the spring rate for your fork. This is what is going to make the fork firmer or softer. Below is a base setting chart for air pressure to get you started. Set your pressure to the recommended PSI then check your SAG point. If you are sagging too much, add some air pressure, if you’re sagging too little, remove air pressure.

Proper Set Up

The Diamond uses an external negative spring adjust (OTT) to tune the beginning of the travel  (sensitivity of the fork). Once you get into the mid-stroke of the fork, the air spring (air pressure) is active. This controls your mid-stroke support and your bottom out. In simpler terms, set your air pressure for your mid-stroke and bottom out then set your OTT to fine tune how it feels off the top.

How do I know how much OTT is right for my air pressure? 

Lighter riders (lower air pressure) will use less OTT. (less sensitive) Heavier riders will need more OTT (more sensitive). The reason for this is because the OTT is there to counter-act the forces of a higher air pressure so you don’t loose small bump sensitivity. When you are using a lower air pressure, you don’t need as much to counter-act the air pressure. If you run too much OTT with a light air pressure, the fork will suck itself down and you will loose travel.

View one of the lower tabs to learn more about your OTT

To access the air valve you must remove the air spring cap.  Attach your shock pump securely and inflate the air spring to the recommended air pressure. After you have added the proper amount of air pressure remember to securely replace the air spring cap so that no dirt or moisture can get inside.

Access air valve by removing air cap

Access air valve by removing air cap

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Attach shock pump to air valve and inflate to recommended pressure or proper sag is achieved

Air Pressure Range: 90-170psi

Rider Weight Air Pressure
120-139lbs | 54-63kg 90-100psi
140-159lbs | 64-72kg 100-110psi
160-179lbs | 73-81kg 110-125psi
180-199lbs | 82-90kg 125-130psi
200-219lbs | 91-100kg 130-135psi
220-239lbs | 100-108kg 135-140psi
240+lbs | 109kg+ 140-170psi

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Suspension Terms & Definitions

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Base Valve
Bottoming Out
Closed Cartridge Dampers
Compression Damping
Fork Oil Level
Free Sag
High-Speed Damping
Low-Speed Damping
Mid-Valve
Negative Spring
Open Bath Dampers
Packing
Platform Damping
Rebound Damping
Spring Preload
Spring Type
Stiction
Twin Tube Dampers
Valving


Base Valve
Base valves are located at the base of the fork leg or on the shock’s reservoir  and generally function to control high speed compression. Base valves or “BV” are fixed & the piston that is attached to a shaft is referred to as the mid-valve or “MV”. Both forks and shocks can have a “BV” and a “MV”.

Bottoming Out
When your suspension reaches the end of its travel on an impact. You generally want to reach full bottom on occasion but NOT all the time. Continual bottoming can wreak havoc on the suspension system leading to breakage.

Closed Cartridge Dampers
Closed Cartridge Dampers are the opposite of an Open Bath Damper, in a closed system the oil solely contained within a cartridge tube and does not flow into the fork leg. Therefore, additional oil or lubricant is added to the inside of the leg to lubricate the seals and bushings.

Compression Damping
This is what gives your bike it’s feeling of plushness, or stiffness. Compression determines how fast the suspension can compress when hitting a bump. If your suspension is too “stiff”, the system won’t compress fast enough to absorb a bump force. When there is not enough damping, the bike has soft, mushy feeling to it and will compress through its travel with little damping resistance.

Fork Oil Level
The level of oil inside the fork. It’s typically measured in cc’s by fully compressing the fork without the spring installed. It is used in tuning the amount of air contained inside the fork. Since compressing air acts like a spring, raising the oil level leaves less room for air, resulting in a rising rate throughout the fork’s travel.

Free Sag
The amount the bike settles under its own weight without the rider. With mountain bikes becoming lighter and lighter, free sag is really not a critical tuning element but still worth mentioning.

High-Speed Damping
Damping feature that controls fast suspension movements. High-speed damping comes into effect on fast, rough, technical trails, g-outs, hard landings. HSD refers to the shaft speed of the suspension and not the actual riding speed. HSD is controlled through a high speed oil circuit best located in the base valve.

Low-Speed Damping
Damping feature to control slower vertical movements such as climbing or slower paced trails and bumpy whoop sections. A good example of low speed is rolling slowly over a large rock and riding to its downside, this is where the suspension will fully compress but at a slower rate and low speed compression circuit comes into play.  LSD refers to the shaft speed of the suspension and not the actual riding speed. LS damping is best controlled through a low speed oil circuit and or shim stack.

Mid-Valve
Mid valves are located on the piston shaft and function in the middle part of the stroke. Mid valves can play an important function in keeping a long travel fork from diving too far into its travel. Mid valves “”MV” function when oil passes through the “MV” from one side of the chamber to the other. The rebound valve is also located on the “MV”.

Negative Spring
A negative spring functions to control the return of the suspension when it reaches full extension. Negative springs can be air, coil spring, rubber bumper or a combination of both. A negative spring also functions to soften the “top out feel” when the wheel/suspension rapidly extends and it also helps initiate compression providing a smoother or more sensitive initial feel. An adjustable negative spring offers the greatest tuning range for riders weight, for example a heavy rider will need a higher or stiffer spring to resist pre-compression, but the high spring rate may also completely compress the negative spring rendering it ineffective to control top out.

Open Bath Dampers
Open Bath refers to a cartridge that is NOT closed and allows oil to flow from the inside of the damper to the outside of the cartridge or inside of the fork legs. Open Bath Dampers use oil for damping, lubrication, cooling, and end stroke “ramp up” or “progression”.  But the downside of all this oil is the added weight of all the excess oil that is used to fill the entire fork leg.

Packing
An issue caused from too much rebound damping. When a series of bumps are encountered, the suspension doesn’t rebound fast enough to absorb the next bump. The suspension keeps compressing more and more after each bump and it gives the rider a very harsh feeling and even loss of traction and control because the wheels no longer follows the contour of the terrain.

Platform Damping
A platform is generally referred to as resistance to initial suspension compression usually generated by pedaling or rider induced forces. A platform can be achieved by various methods and usually the best way to limit suspension “bobbing” is to restrict oil flow through the low speed circuit. Depending on what technology you have and there are various designs out there, choking off the low speed circuit can be achieved by either adjusting a pressure spring on the shim stack, adjusting the depth of a bleed needle or changing the size of an orifice via a slide. These are just a few of the most common methods to deliver platform damping feel to improve pedaling efficiency.

Rebound Damping
Once your suspension has hit a bump and compresses, now its time for your rebound damping to kick in. Rebound controls how fast the fork extends back from compression to keep the wheel on the ground. Rebound can affect your traction as well. Too much rebound damping will keep the suspension compressed when it should be extending to stay on the ground on the downside of a bump, and the wheel will loose contact with the ground. This is called “Packing”. Too little rebound damping will cause the suspension to “bounce” and “hop” also causing a loss of traction and control. Proper rebound control is equally important as compression and it is very important to properly tune this performance feature. The rebound valve is best located on the “MV” with a tapered shim stack controlling oil flow. Damping systems that use oriface or small holes to control damping simply cannot control the dynamics of high performance suspension.

Spring Preload
The preload ring or collar compresses the shock or fork spring and either shortens or extends the spring to its original length. Preload is used to adjust the suspension to the correct range of operation within the suspension’s travel- more spring preload will the raise the bike up and less preload will lower it.

Spring Type
Springs can either be coil or air and both are widely used in mountain bike suspension systems. Springs work to resist pre-compression of the suspension under the riders weight and is independent of the compression system which refers to damping. Too stiff of a spring rate delivers a harsh and uncontrolled feel, if your spring rate is too soft, the suspension will sit too far into its travel and will feel mushy and easily bottom out . Its important to have the correct spring rate for each rider and setting up “SAG” will determine whether you have the correct rate or not.

Stiction
Or static friction, is a term that describes friction that occurs from parts rubbing or gliding across one another. For example, on both the rebound and compression stroke, the stanchion tubes must glide against the bushings, o-rings, seals, and other parts. The parts that come in contact with one another create friction and when a bending load is applied the stiction can increase causing the suspension to bind and feel notchy. Stiction can also dramatically increase after seals become dry resulting in the loss of small bump sensitivity.

Twin Tube Dampers
Twin Tube systems generally combine the technology of an “Open Bath” Damper and a “Closed Cartridge” system. With a Twin Tube design, the cartridge damper is inside of a tube (hence twin tube) allowing oil to flow from the cartridge damper into and from the twin tube providing additional oil flow and damping performance without the added weight of “excess” oil that is needed to fill the fork leg.

Valving
The mechanical hardware that creates compression or rebound damping. Valving is a combination of check valves, holes, ports, shims, springs, etc. The best valving arrises out of piston with a series of tapered shim stacks which are very thin high quality steel “washers” that when combined together produce a smooth yet linear flex pattern when oil flows around them. Shims provide the resistance to the oil flowing through the piston at various speeds.  The lower amount of shims used typically means the damping quality is less. Systems that use one or two shims deliver a harsh feel on high speed hits, unfortunately, many so-called high performance suspension designs use very few shims and/or only small holes to control damping forces. If your clickers are ineffective or have a very small range, this is due to improper piston & shim stack design.

 

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